Tuesday, August 24, 2010

Spaghetti Night

I am a mutt of the Heinz 57 variety. My family tree has been grafted so many times that I am not exactly sure where my roots begin. My mom’s side is English and Irish; my dad’s Scottish and a little Cherokee Indian. This heritage is not exactly the seed from which great cuisine is grown. My husband on the other hand is a purebred: both sets of his grandparents came over on the boat from Italy, signed the book at Ellis Island and brought with them the world’s best cuisine. Don’t get me wrong, my mom is a great cook, but her recipes are just not “sexy”. I suppose Italian home cooking is not that special either, but having grown up sheltered in America The South, Italy seems so exotic. My mother-in-law introduced me to all kinds of new foods: artichokes, smelt at Christmas, taradella (yummy bread sticks flavored with fennel seed), Easter Bread (they actually make this special bread only once a year!), and her spaghetti sauce with meatballs. When my kids were young, Sunday night was our spaghetti night (or lasagna, or gnocchi, or ziti---you get the picture). I always made a big batch of the sauce and froze portions for future use. So, I was honored the other day, when my oldest son’s wife ask me to teach her how to make my “sauce”. What a compliment! Both from my son that he wanted to re-create a dish he had growing up and from my daughter-in-law, that she wanted my recipe. I will admit these days with just two of us rambling around this big house, I don’t cook too many long-simmering dishes that often anymore, but when my kids all want to return home for some of mom’s home cooking, I do it up big. I generally send them home with a container of leftovers so that at least one more time during the week they will think of me when they pour that red sauce over a plate of hot pasta after a long day at work. I always thought it silly that Aunt Catherine, well into her 80’s, always spent her Sundays cooking up huge batches of this red “gold” only to give it all away to granddaughters who would just run by and pick up a to-go box. Only now as a mom with grown children, can I totally understand this concept.
Spaghetti sauce, marinara, gravy or whatever you call it in your region of the universe is a simple food with the addition of a little love thrown in for good measure. Everyone has his/her own version and I must admit that I have even tweaked my mother-in-law’s recipe (the nerve!). The best batch I ever made used a basket of fresh tomatoes but that was a lot more work than I am up for these days. Maybe you should try it at least once. Fresh tomatoes require peeling, seeding, and pureeing even before the cooking begins. These days I am a lazy cook and I thank the tomato canneries profusely for making my life a little easier even though using the fresh makes a mighty tasty sauce!

Spaghetti Sauce with Meatballs
Makes 3 quarts

2 (12-ounce) cans tomato paste
1 (24-ounce) can crushed Italian brand tomatoes
1/2 tablespoon dried oregano
1/2 tablespoon dried basil
1/2-1 tablespoon salt
2-3 medium carrots, peeled and thinly sliced
1-2 ounces pepperoni, about 14 thin slices
1/4 cup chopped fresh basil (see tips), optional


1. Put carrots and pepperoni slices in a separate saucepan and add just enough water to cover. Bring to a boil, lower heat and cover. Simmer for 20-30 minutes or until carrots are very tender. Put carrots, pepperoni and any liquid left in the pan in a blender. Carefully puree mixture until no lumps remain ((Caution! Hot contents will explode out of the blender if the container is more than 1/3 full and the lid is put on too tight.) or you can mash thoroughly with a fork). You may need to add additional water if necessary.
2. Put tomato paste and crushed tomatoes into a large pot (at least 5 quart-size). Stir in 1 1/2 quarts water until no lumps of tomato paste remain. Turn heat to medium-high and bring to a slow boil. Turn heat down to low or simmer to maintain a slow simmer.
3. Rub dry herbs between fingers to warm and extract the most flavor. Stir thoroughly.
4. Stir in the carrot/pepperoni puree.


When the sauce is bubbly,lower the heat and start the meatballs:

1 pound lean ground round or sirloin (I like the taste of these meats but you can use ground chuck as well)
1/4 cup dry bread crumbs
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1/4 cup Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley# (don't use dried, omit if you don't have fresh)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/8 teaspoon garlic powder
1 tablespoon vegetable oil, preferably extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 cup dry red wine (see tips)

Meatball Directions:
1. Mix ground meat, breadcrumbs, egg, cheese and parsley. Season with salt, pepper and garlic powder.
2. Heat olive oil in a nonstick skillet. Pinch off enough meat mixture to make a 1 1/2-inch ball. Add meatballs in batches to hot skillet and brown all over. Do not crowd the pan to ensure even browning. Remove meatballs with a slotted spoon and set aside.
3. When the last batch of meatballs has browned, add crushed garlic to the pan; stir or shake the pan for about 30 seconds, just until garlic is softened and releases its aroma. Remove all garlic and meatballs.
4. Add the wine to the hot pan and stir to pick up any browned bits stuck to the bottom of the skillet. When wine has reduced by half, pour into spaghetti sauce.
4. Add cooked meatballs and garlic into the sauce. Gently stir and continue cooking over low/simmer heat for about 1 hour, stirring occasionally to check if the sauce is sticking to the bottom of the pan. If this happens, lower heat to lowest setting.
5. Taste and add enough salt to your liking.
6. Stir in fresh basil the last 5 minutes of cooking. Serve hot over cooked pasta. Sauce can be frozen up to 3 months.



Tips:
Do not use cooking wine found in the vinegar section of the grocery store. It is poor quality and high in sodium. Cook with a wine that you would drink (find a good-tasting inexpensive one).

To chop fresh herbs: roll herbs into a tight bundle and finely chop crosswise with a sharp knife. Or snip with kitchen scissors.

To store fresh herbs (parsley): wash in plenty of cold water; drain on paper towels. Roll clean, damp herbs in dry paper towels and place in a tightly covered plastic container. Store 1-2 weeks in the coldest part of your refrigerator.

Basil should be kept on the counter with the stems submerged in water. Change water every two days and trim stems, if necessary. Will keep for one week. Basil does not store well in the cold climate of the refrigerator.

Friday, June 11, 2010

Summer Grilled Tenderloin



I am such a carnivore….give me a great steak any day over green vegetables: the yummy taste of charbroil on the outside of any meat cooked over a hot flame is almost Nirvana. The Prince of all grilled meats is the beef tenderloin. A cut from the top of the bovine near the backbone. True to its name, this steak comes from a muscle that does little work so it stays nice and tender.
Just this once, push dad off his perch as the grill-guy and treat him to a nice home-cooked dinner for his special day. He deserves a break.

One secret steak houses and butchers share is that prepping a tenderloin is tantamount in achieving its ultimate tenderness.
Most tenderloins come vacuum-sealed in plastic. I usually cut it open with scissors over the sink, rinse and pat it dry with paper towels. Then I get out my big, flat baking sheet, place the meat on it (to save my countertop from getting icky). I must admit, not a very sexy beginning to such a luscious steak. I will warn you that this whole prep process is not one for the faint of heart. Vegetarians beware!
There are a few parts to a whole tenderloin: the main loin, the side pieces and the end muscle or the head (these are my made up "technical" terms). (Side note: if you really abhor this whole process you could ask your butcher to prep it for you, but be sure to ask for all his discarded pieces or he and his missus will be having a tasty treat for dinner with all the extras that are cut off).
You need to pull the head piece away from the main muscle because it is a little stringier, fattier and there is some of the silver skin hiding underneath that needs to be removed.
It will separate fairly easy by slipping your fingers between the head and the silver skin; gently pull it to separate. Don't discard this piece; you paid top dollar for it.

If it is stubborn, gently "persuade" it with your knife!
I roll it up and tie it in a couple places (to keep its uniform shape), marinate and grill it along with the main piece. Doesn't slice as neatly, but definitely grills up as yummy. It is just not as pretty; looks are not everything!



There will also be side pieces that need to be removed. These side pieces will be only good for grinding because they are interlaced with tough membranes. Again, your fingers are your best tool, but you can also use a knife.


Keep removing all these "stringy" pieces as you sing a happy song and keep reminding yourself of the yumminess to come.
(Remember, I told you this was not for the faint of heart!)






You will have two good pieces of meat: the body and the head.









Next, you must remove all the silver skin off the top of the loin. This tough membrane is the connection that holds the muscle to the bone. I know, I know....too much information. No matter how much marinating, cooking, cajoling or pleading this membrane is TOO tough to eat.If you leave it on, you, your family and your guests will chew and chew and chew. Not a pleasant experience.
First, slide the knife under the end of the silver skin that seems to disappear towards the middle of the loin and cut it away from the muscle. Pull this silver skin from the muscle. It may splinter and leave remanents behind. Just keep cutting and pulling. If it slips out of your grip, use a paper towel to get a better grip or use your knife to cut this tough membrane away from the meat.
If you cut it away, just don't take too much of the good meat with it. That is why I like to pull it away.
Keep trimming until all the silver skin is gone.

Next, scrap away any excess fat from the underside of the loin.









Tuck under the “skinny” tail and tie around with the main body with kitchen twine. Continue tying the whole loin at about 3-inch intervals for even cooking. Sometimes I have to admit that I am lazy with this step and skip it all together, but when you tie, the end result does make for neater slicing when the meat is cooked.





Now, prepare the marinade: put 3 peeled garlic cloves (size doesn't matter) in a plastic ziptop bag and smash with a meat pounder. Pour in 1/2 cup Dale’s Steak seasoning and 1 cup white or red wine (please don't use "cooking" wine; it is poor quality and is seasoned with salt. Use an inexpensive wine that you would drink. This is a perfect use for any leftover wine---but who has leftover wine?!). Add some freshly ground black pepper and 1/3 cup vegetable oil. Seal and carefully shake the bag to mix all the ingredients. Open and put in all the meat (you may have to stuff the bag full--again depending on the size of the loin). I put the bag in a container to avoid any accidental spills. I learned the hard way.

Marinate the meat in the refrigerator at least two hours or overnight, turning the bag ocassionally to evenly marinate. Remove from the refrigerator 1 hour before grilling and let rest at room temperature. Any meat (steak, chicken, pork, etc.) will cook better if it is not cooked when it is chilled. The first time you cook a room temperature piece of meat you will be convinced to continue because it will cook up more evenly and will be juicier. Remove meat from the bag and discard the marinade.

Heat grill to high heat. Place meat on the grill and turn every 5 minutes 1/4th turn until all sides have a dark golden crust all over.

Continue cooking 30-45 minutes or until desired doneness (depends on the size and weight of the tenderloin; a meat thermometer should read 135-140* when inserted into the center of the meat for medium rare. Temperature will continue to rise as the meat rests). Do not overcook or meat will dry out since there is very little fat. Tenderloins should be served medium rare or at minimum, medium. Remove from heat and let rest for at least 10 minutes to retain juices in the meat. Cut kitchen string from meat and slice into thin rounds. Serve warm.

 Leftovers make delicious sandwiches or roll in warm tortillas!






Here is a delicious side dish for your grilled tenderloin.

Garlic Roasted Green Beans with New Potatoes

4-6 servings

1 pound small red potatoes, scrubbed

1 pound fresh green beans, stem ends trimmed

3 cloves garlic, crushed

3 fresh thyme sprigs, cut into thirds

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

salt and pepper, to taste

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

finely grated zest of 1 lemon (2 teaspoons)

1. Preheat oven to 450*.

2. If potatoes are too large, cut into quarters. Toss potatoes and green beans with garlic, thyme and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Remove the potatoes and place in a single layer on a foil covered roasting pan. Roast for 10-15 minutes.

4. Add green beans to the roasting pan and continue roasting another 10-15 minutes, turning occasionally until tender and lightly browned.

5. Discard thyme sprigs. Transfer potatoes and beans to a serving bowl. Toss with lemon juice and zest until well coated. Serve warm or at room temperature.





Wednesday, March 10, 2010

Chicken N' Dumplings Done Right

I have learned so much from my mother: humility, happiness, survival, and how to cook. My mom was the original working woman when it was not in vogue. She worked during the era when women were supposed to wear crinolines and pearls and meet their husbands at the door with a martini when they returned from working. My mom, widowed at an early age, worked in a sweatshop for minimum wages, reared 4 children alone, grew our food, and endured a hard life. But you will find no bitterness in this incredible woman, only happiness and contentment; no blame, only responsibility. She made sure we learned survival skills and how to cook. And everyone in my family cooks, learned from those long weekends of canning vegetables from our summer garden to last thru winter. Skills long lost on today’s youth. The kitchen was our gathering place, a happy place and it still is today.

I, my daughter, Lindsey, grandson, Arthur and granddaughter, Rowan recently visited mom’s kitchen to learn her secret recipe of her famous, sought after Chicken N’ Dumplings. I am a good cook, but there was always something missing in my pot. The dumplings were never quite right; the broth either too thick or too thin. We watched with eagle eyes, took notes and documented with pictures as she prepared our dinner.


The first thing she did was rinse the bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts (my family prefers white meat, but you could use leg quarters or a whole chicken as well). She covered the breast with enough water (her words) or about 6 cups and seasoned with salt and pepper to taste. She brought it up to a boil, turned the heat to medium-low and half covered the pot with a lid. She let the chicken boil (hotter than most chefs and cookbooks recommend) until it started to fall off the bone, about 45 minutes to 1 hour. We removed the chicken pieces from the pot to a plate to cool so we could pull the meat off the bone.

The smell coming from the pot was already incredible!

We had lots of help with the dough.

While the chicken cooked, we made the dumplings. In a bowl, cut 1/4 cup shortening (she only uses Crisco) into 2 cups of all-purpose flour seasoned with 1 teaspoon salt using a pastry cutter or do as she did and rub the flour together with the shortening with your fingers. Stir in enough cold water (again her words but about 1 cup) with a spoon or preferably your hands to make a stiff dough. Turn dough out on a floured cloth or surface and knead several times. This may be a work-out because the dough should be pretty stiff. Let rest a few minutes, then roll out in a very thin rustic circle, (about 1/8 inch thick). Cut into strips about 1 1/2-inches wide with a butter knife. Let the dough rest and dry out slightly while chicken is finishing cooking.
These hands have created a lot of love in her kitchen......




Remove (or pick as my mom instructed) the chicken from the bones and return back to the pot of broth.
Turn the heat to medium-high and add 2-3 cups of whole milk. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium-low and begin adding the dough by tearing into 2-3 inch pieces and dropping into the simmering milk/broth combination.
DO NOT STIR! You can shake the pot to rearrange the dumplings if needed. Cover, lower heat and simmer for 15-20 minutes or until dumplings are transparent. Ladel into a bowl and enjoy the best comfort food ever!
My mom is right, of all the gifts to family, none is sweeter than memories from the kitchen.
Even though my mom will soon celebrate her 89th birthday, she still cooks for her family, friends and community and relishes every minute of it.
Happy birthday, mom! I love you more than you will ever know!
Chicken n' Dumplings
3-4 bone-in chicken breasts (or leg quarters or whole chicken)
about 6 cups water
Salt and pepper to taste
2-3 cups whole milk
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup or less shortening
about 1 cup cold water

Thursday, February 4, 2010

Sliders at my Super Bowl Paty





Right behind Christmas and Thanksgiving, Super Bowl Sunday ranks as the third largest occasion for Americans to consume food, according to the National Football League. Some people revere this game-viewing day as a national holiday. It certainly is a great excuse to invite a bunch of friends over for food and fun. The time has come to decide what food would be the most fun and the best match for football. Why not make Sliders for the celebration of the Super Bowl with our friends. In today’s market Sliders are current, hip and cool. Every restaurant worth its weight in catsup has its own version of these Mini Burgers on the menu. At the beginning of the trend (even before I knew it was a “trend”), I made Mini Cheeseburgers in Paradise for a Jimmy Buffet birthday party theme for a friend. I must say they are delicious if you are a burger fan. Most burger recipes tout the ratio of 80% lean meat to 20% fat. Whoa! Way too fatty for me. Who made this rule? I prefer 90-92% lean ground round or sirloin (tastes like a little steak—yum!) to make these mini burgers, uh, sliders (forgot the trend). The trick to keeping the burger airy and light and not so heavy and dense is not to over-handle the meat or over cook. Pinch off enough (about the size of a lemon). Smash it flat between your palms (squish it flat enough to cover your rolls) and place on a tray; season with salt and pepper, to taste. Don’t worry if the edges are not pretty or even. This just adds to the character of the sandwich. Preheat a grill pan or griddle or heavy-bottom frying pan. Brush lightly with vegetable oil to prevent sticking. When the oil is almost smoking hot, place the burger on the pan. Now just wait. Don’t touch the burger, or move it or check it. Just leave it be! You want a nice dark brown finish on the outside. And especially don't flatten it with the spatula. You want to keep all that juiciness inside. When the burger is really protesting (a loud sizzle) and the juices are starting to run, flip it over to the other side and wait some more, keeping the heat on medium high. When it is almost ready, top it with a slice of cheese. I prefer American (it is an American sport after all!) but choose whatever cheese you like. To help the cheese melt faster without overcooking the burger, cover the pan briefly with a lid. Remove the patties to a serving plate and tent with foil or a plate or the lid. I like my buns toasted, thank you. The tastiest way to toast is to use the same pan where the patties cooked. If the pan has drippings in it, drain and wipe out with a paper towel. Plop the “buns” (really just dinner rolls that have been cut open) cut-side down. The bread will brown and absorb the meat flavors. Place a patty on each roll and top with whatchalike. Have bacon; tomato slices; pickles; onions; mustard; catsup; sautéed mushrooms; pickled jalepeno slices; etc., etc. on a tray and let each guest make his/her own slider. You should plan to make 2-3 per person. If you buy the right size dinner rolls, these sliders will disappear before the Colts score their first goal! Enjoy!

Monday, January 4, 2010

Potatoes, Big Daddy of all Vegetables


Ahhh….potatoes. How do I love thee? Mashed, hashed, boiled, baked, roasted, stewed, souped, salad, pancaked, chipped and best of all fried. With you we make dumplings, pasta, and bread. You even make a cute little toy, Mr. Potato Head. You are the Big Daddy of all vegetables. You even saved an entire country once, Superman. Is there anything that a potato can’t do?


The lowly spud can:

1. Safely remove broken a light bulb by cutting off the top of a raw potato and shove it onto the broken glass, twist and unscrew the bulb.

2. Cure common warts by rubbing a raw potato over until it is covered with the juice. Repeat daily until the wart is gone. Be sure to discard the used potato....ewwww!

3. Soothe minor skin burns and painful afflicted areas (arthritis, swelling, bruises, scratches, cuts and bug bites). Make a poultice (now that is a word my grandmother used) by shredding the potato into very, very fine pieces to make a paste. Apply the paste to the burn or afflicted areas and leave it undisturbed for a few minutes until you feel relief.

4. Remove some salt from your soup or stew: just toss in a slice of potato. Set aside for 10 minutes then remove the potato. It will absorb some of the extra salt. Use the potato for potato salad, yum!

5. Make a battery. I did this in Chemistry class, but I have forgotten how. Something about creating a complete circuit with wires stuck into the potato.

6. Remove tarnish on silverware. Boil some potatoes, reserving liquid. Soak your silverware in this liquid for 1 hour. Remove silverware and wash. The tarnish should be gone. I must admit, I have never tried this, but my cousin swears by it. The next time you make mashed potatoes, save the water and polish your silver. That’s a tip that would make Martha proud.

7. Make a hot or cold compress. Potatoes retain heat and cold well. The next time you need a hot compress, nuke a potato in the microwave, wrap it in a towel, and apply to the area. Refrigerate or freeze a cooked potato if you need a cold compress.

8. Make mock maple syrup (recipe below).

9. And the drum roll please……..my favorite way to use a potato is to make vodka. Grain products and sugar beet molasses are used to create vodka, but potatoes are one of the main sources of vodka, too.

My hat is off to you, Tater. You are delicious and yet practical. There is not and can never be another replacement.


Mock Maple Syrup
You will be amazed at the similarity.


Yield: about 2 cups
6 medium potatoes
2 cups water
1 cup sugar
1 cup brown sugar (light or dark)
1. Peel potatoes. Place in a saucepan with the water. Bring to a boil and cook until only one cup of fluid remains. Remove the potatoes and reserve for another use.
2. Stir the sugars in the one cup of potato water until completely dissolved. Bring back to a boil. Remove from heat and let cool completely.
3. Put the syrup in a bottle or container and store at room temperature for several days to mature. Use as maple syrup.
–from the book Wilderness Wife, by Bradford and Vena Angier

Loaded Mashed Potatoes
This recipe is a marriage of my two favorite dishes: loaded baked potatoes and garlic mashed potatoes. These two were meant for each other: may they live happily ever after.

4-6 servings
4 Russet potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
1 1/2 pounds red potatoes, scrubbed clean and cut into chunks (the same size as Russets)
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter or margarine
4 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup sour cream
1 cup shredded cheddar cheese
8 slices bacon, cooked crisp and crumbled
1/4 cup chopped chives or green onion tops
pepper to taste

1. Place potatoes in a large pot and cover with cold water; add salt. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook until potatoes are fork-tender about 12-15 minutes, being careful not to over cook (potatoes should still retain shape, but a chunk can be crushed with a pair of tongs). Drain completely in a colander.

2. Return potatoes to the cooking pot and place back over low heat, shaking the pan so all the surface water can evaporate.

3. While potatoes cook, melt butter in a small saucepan; add garlic and cook over low heat just until garlic softens.

4. Add cream to the garlic butter and heat through.

5. Remove cream mixture from heat and stir in sour cream.

6. When potatoes are cooked and dry, add butter/sour cream mixture to the pot while mashing with a potato masher to blend all the ingredients and achieve a light texture, being careful not to over mix (or potatoes may become gummy).

7. Taste and adjust the seasonings with salt and pepper. (Can be made to this point and kept warm in a double boiler over simmering water or covered and placed in a warm oven.)

8. Just before serving, stir in cheese and bacon. Spoon into a serving dish and top with chives.

Tips: My mother taught me when making mashed potatoes, plan for 1 medium potato per person plus one extra for the pot. Those measurements have always worked for me. How easy is this tip to remember!

Making mashed potatoes is not an exact science because the amount of liquid to add is incumbent upon how much water the potatoes absorbed as they were cooking, but a good rule of thumb to follow is 1/4 cup dairy per pound of potatoes.

For easy removal of bacon slices, roll the whole package into a cylinder beginning with the short end; unroll and pieces will “peel” off each other better. If you only use bacon occasionally, separate into individual slices, wrap each piece in plastic wrap, and place wrapped pieces in a zip top freezer bag. When a recipe calls for a few slices of bacon, remove only as many as needed.

To cook bacon: Remove desired number of slices from package in one piece. Chop or cut through all slices into small pieces with kitchen scissors or a knife. Fry over medium-low heat, separating pieces as they cook. Cook until crisp and golden brown.

Chives are a member of the onion family but have a much milder flavor. Snip fresh chives with kitchen scissors to desired length. Store fresh chives in a plastic bag in the refrigerator up to 1 week.